Having run in the 2005 Marathon des Sables, I felt it was time to try another desert race. I seemed finally to be recovering from 18 months of achilles tendonitis, I liked running in hot weather and I was fascinated by South America. So I entered.
The Atacama Desert Race is part of Racing The Planet’s ‘4 Deserts’ series (Sahara, Gobi, Atacama and Antarctica, plus one other race which changes location every year). Held in Chile, it was moved from late July to end March in 2009, mainly because it was so cold in July that all the race water froze overnight. Known for its ‘moonscape’ appearance, the Atacama is the highest and driest desert in the world.
It follows the standard 7-day, 250km stage race pattern, with competitors running 4 days of 22-26 miles, then a long stage of about 50 miles and finishing with a 10k. Competitors may sleep overnight during the long stage, but must have left the final checkpoint by 6am of the second day. Most do it in one stage, giving them a ‘day off’ before the final leg.
All kit for the duration of the week must be carried – food, clothing, medicines, sleeping bag etc. Tents are shared by 7-9 people. Water is given at varying intervals and at the end of each day. However, there are two main differences to the set-up of the MdS: hot water (as much as you like), in addition to the cold water given, is provided in the morning and evenings (for cooking/drinking, not washing) and the tents provided are slightly more robust.
After a good Winter’s training, my best-laid plans started to unravel in February 2009. I developed sesamoiditis, inflammation of the sesamoid bones which sit in the flexor tendon of the big toe. After two steroid injections, the only way I was going to get to the start of the race was by resting…A 6-week taper was not in my training plan. A couple of days before my flight to Chile, one of our dogs ate 4 days-worth of rehydrated food, gels, sweets and bars. And then I got a stinking cold the day before my flight. Ah well, it couldn’t get any worse, surely?
I arrived in Chile a few days before the race to acclimatize to the altitude and recover from the flight. Iberia were great, far better than the reports I’d heard from previous competitors. The problem is that Chile is a long way away and the Atacama desert even further. I coughed and sneezed my way from Heathrow to Madrid, Madrid to Santiago, Santiago to Calama and then an hour’s transfer by mini-bus to San Pedro de Atacama.
San Pedro is a friendly town with good restaurants, gift shops and lots of tourist offices. It’s the main place from which to explore the desert, see the geysers and visit the natural thermal springs. The locals are very helpful, there’s no hassle in any shops and the dogs – of which there are many – are sleepy, well-fed and not interested in tourists.
Sitting at an altitude of about 2,500m, it’s high enough to give you a slight headache and breathlessness. Reaching 30 degrees during the day (by 9am), a slight breeze around 3pm does nothing to cool the temperature until around 5pm. Nights feel cold, probably because of the day-time temperatures.
All competitors met on the Saturday before race day, for kit checks, pack weighing (lightest 6 kilos, heaviest 14 kilos! Mine was 9 kilos) and medical checks. After a rather mean ‘picnic lunch’ of one sandwich and water, we were then driven to the desert, assigned our tents and given an evening meal.
The event started the next day at 8am.
Although we were at an altitude of approx 3,300m, it didn’t seem to affect me and the running was good. I was 2nd female after the first day. I decided to slow down a bit and take it easy as I wanted to keep a steady, consistent pace over the next 6 days. Day 2 was fantastic running, knee deep through cold, cold rivers then calf deep in dunes. Very varied terrain, again I had a good day’s running keeping my 2nd position.
It then started to go horribly wrong. There had been what seemed to be a 24-hour sickness and diarrhoea bug going around the Media crew, with a couple of them given IV drips. I was up all night after the 2nd day. Two portable loos were provided for about 100 people. I did not make it to them.
Day 3 started with me feeling a little weak but nicely bunged up with Imodium. All ok until about midday. I then started to projectile vomit, which lasted for the next 3 days. Day 3 took me over 9 hours to complete the same distance as Days 1 and 2, which had taken around 5 hours. The Course Setter, a rather good-looking Spanish runner, came out to help me in over the last stage of the day. Someone probably told him there was a middle-aged woman languishing in sand and refusing to get up in 30 degree heat. He was very kind. I threw up bile over him. He told me I was beautiful. What a guy…
The Medics were very pleasant, organized and friendly. However, I wonder if I would have recovered better and more effectively for the remainder of the race if they had given me an IV drip that night, instead of a can of Coke, especially as I have only one kidney. I have no doubt that it was the effect of heat, exhaustion and dehydration that prolonged my state of ill-health, plus trying to run in that state in heat over 26-50 miles, rather than a lingering viral infection.
I could barely eat for 3 days (thank goodness for liquorice torpedoes) and getting enough fluid and electrolytes in me was a challenge. Because I was so weak and feeble, it was taking me far longer to complete each day and I was staggering sideways, tripping and slipping instead of moving forward. My feet blistered pretty badly around the heels, toes and balls of both feet due to the time spent on them and the friction caused by swelling and heat. It wasn’t sand – hardly any sand got through my gaitors. The infamous Salt Flats are mean and nasty – some are like hard coral which tear up your gaitors and shoes, others are like hard crusty mud which you sink through to ankle deep gloop. Very difficult to run on or get any consistent stride, we had 14km of them on Day 4, as well as other days interspersed with them.
Okay, it wasn’t what I planned (top 3 placing) and it certainly wasn’t very pretty, but I was damned if I wasn’t going to finish. Two stray dogs ran with me over the last 2km, which really kept me going. 18lbs lighter and with baggy lycra, I crossed the finish line back in San Pedro in sixth place (Women). My medal was so big and heavy, I nearly toppled over when they put it over my head.
Whilst initially I was very disappointed, I guess that’s what Ultras are all about – you never know how they’re going to turn out. Which is why, although I swore during the race I was never, ever going to do another (a beach holiday sounded like a good idea), the notes I wrote after included the words ‘next time…’
Overall Impression
A well-organised, but expensive race. Race fee approx USD 3,000 which includes 2 nights in hotel (pre race and post race), all water, medical aid and tent accommodation during the race, after-race banquet, medal and finishers T-shirt (long-sleeved Patagonia top). Flights, transport, additional accommodation and food at your own expense.
The Atacama is beautiful – clear, blue skies during the day (no clouds at all), pink sunsets and starry nights. Huge canyons, lush vegetation, rocks, boulders, crusty salt flats and sand of all varieties. A few stages were long and flat, but there were some climbs to approx 3,300m and technical scrambles over dried out waterfalls. Much more varied than the Sahara, and a tougher race than the MdS due to the terrain and altitude. About a 25% drop out rate, a lot of them Brits. Most competitors were more experienced and better runners than at the MdS, but possibly due to smaller numbers.
Basic Kit List
Shoes - Montrail Mountain Masochists
I would have preferred a heavier, more supportive shoe like the
Continental Divide which I used in the MdS and were great for
multi-day races. The MMs however, were the most comfortable
for my sesamoid problems – the medial posting is positioned mid
foot, allowing the fore foot to supinate slightly. A responsive, light
shoe, it’s more supportive than the Streak. I’ve since used them on
the Calderdale Hike and Fellsman and they were very comfortable
with good grip.
I used the full gaitors and stuck them to my shoes with strong glue.
Watch when you take them on and off, as the velcro is so strong, it’s
that which pulls them off your shoe if you’re not careful. Some people
stitched them on. Allowed no sand in, but at what cost re. breathability?
Used gaffa tape to reinforce them around the toe.
Clothing - Raidlight shorts and T-shirt; tights (for night), thermal layer,
sandproof top (like a windproof) and hat (with neck flap).
Absolutely brilliant – comfortable, no chaffing, lightweight and
wicking. The mesh pockets are great for easy access of food/gels
etc, but secure and with minimal bounce. Highly recommended.
Some competitors wore muscle compression recovery tights in
camp/at night – these possibly make sense during a stage race for
overnight recovery.
I also used the Raidlight poles, which assemble and collapse like
tent poles. Extremely lightweight and packable, they were useful
in deep sand and when I was going more slowly due to blisters.
Pack - Raidlight 30L. Very comfortable with good padding – no rubbing
at all. Can be used with additional front pack, as can other pack
sizes. Most competitors used this make of pack.
Used Raidlight bottles fastened onto shoulder straps; these slipped
a bit and the bottles leaked slightly (but possibly because I was so bent
over being sick or with general fatigue, most of the time!)
Other - Therm-a-rest Z Rest sleeping mat. Bulky but very lightweight,
robust and easy to pack. Strapped onto outside of pack. Those
who chose not to use a sleeping mat got very cold at night!
PHD Minimus Sleeping bag and down zipped jacket – both very
warm and lightweight/compressible.
Warm hat and gloves (worn at night and during the long stage).
X Socks, 2 pairs – ensure you get the correct size. Injinji socks
seemed very popular with competitors.
Black Diamond Spot headtorch
MSR mug with lid
Sunglasses (The North Face)
P20 Sun lotion and Piz Buin 30 All Day cream – much better than
normal factor 50 suncream. A lot of competitors got very badly burnt
arms and legs – use lots of lotion!
Earplugs – essential for tent life!
Piece of PackTowl for washing (with water allowance)
Expedition Foods rehydrated packs, Peronin, various bars, Cliff
Shot Blocs, Squeezy carbo sweets, Gu gels, Pepperami, Bombay
Mix and Liquorice torpedoes. Isostar electrolyte tablets.
Make sure you have enough variety and include salty/spicey foods.
Pepperami and Bombay Mix are lightweight, easy to pack and a
welcome alternative to sweet foods. I found the Shot Bloks melted
a bit – the Squeezy sweets were better in hot conditions, as were the
Gu gels as they’re normally quite thick. The electrolyte tablets are
big and heavy, but I find the most palatable over time. Peronin
was great – filling and a good stomach settler, as was the liquorice.
I couldn’t eat the bars after the second day or the Porridge.
I planned to eat around 2,400 calories a day; Days 3-7, I managed
around 500 at most.
For more info, see www.racingtheplanet.com
